2014 R. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA VINA CUBILLO CRIANZA, RIOJA SPAIN

The Cubillo Crianza is aged for three years in barrel and then at least two more in bottle before release, and therefore could technically fall into the Gran Reserva rather than Crianza category. The wine has an unusually high percentage of Garnacha in the blend; a varietal that often yields a softer, fleshier more generous style.

Not so with 2012, a dry year with a relatively early harvest; that's what the book says, and yet the wine is wonderfully composed, with bright natural acidity, citrus fruit, and hints of orange peel evidenced, all dancing around the fruit bed of flavor, the deftly savory backdrop holding the ensemble together effortlessly.

Beautifully fine and refined tannins complete the picture; there is almost a hint of salinity on the back palate, unusual in red wine, the request for food subtly yet duly registered.