While the vast majority of Albariño is made on an industrial scale to knock back easily in its youth, there are a handful of tiny artisanal producers who are pushing the boundaries of this region and this varietal and crafting some of Spain’s most original, complex and age-worthy white wines. And in the top echelon of this pyramid is Bodegas Zarate, who is one of Rias Baixas’ and Spain’s most exciting and talented winemakers
