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For centuries Valdepeñas in central Spain has prided itself on its fine, long aged reds that cellar well. Yet few know the name. It means ‘valley of stones’, and the stony soils and sun-baked climate provide ideal conditions for vines. Winemaker at this outstanding family cellar is Antolin Gonzalez, who himself has many awards to his name. He insists on only the finest Tempranillo grapes from his oldest vineyards. Those wizened old-timers only yield a frugal harvest, but the grapes they produce are concentrated knots of flavour, translating to glassfuls of really intense fruit flavour. With a year in oak, and over three years in bottle too, this Reserva has lots of mellow complexity. Enjoy with poultry, light game or a creamy risotto.